Saturday, June 20, 2009 - Routes des Grandes Alpes
Briancon to Guillestre
While the others bicycled over the col d’Izoard unloaded, as their panniers were now being sagged in the rental car, Ed, John N. and I drove the col d’Izoard from the Guillestre side of the col. For awhile I was thinking I would prefer to be on a bicycle......this was one cliff hanging ride! John N. spotted our group's bicycles outside a cafe where they were enjoying lunch just on the downside. We enjoyed hearing about their climb and Jerry commented that this was his favorite ride of the trip. The wildflowers were magnificent!
Ed and I shared driving. I hadn’t driven a stick in 10 years but figured it out quickly. Never expected to be riding a bicycle or driving a 6-speed over the Alps. We were driving the Routes des Grande Alpes and enjoying photo opportunities when the road was wide enough.
Each day John N. seems to be improving. The top of his head was pretty beat up with helmet marks from his fall, but the helmet did it’s job, and his arm and a couple of fingers were wearing some nasty road rash…..we were told his legs were bruised badly as well, so imagine they are turning the colors of the rainbow.
The hotel Catinat-fleuri in Gillestre offered to wash bicycle clothes for free……what an unexpected treat!
Enjoyed a nice dinner at the hotel.
Sunday, June 21, 2009 – Father’s Day – Col d’Vars
Guillestre to Barcelonnette
Breakfast at the hotel. Ed decided it was time to get back on the bike and climb the col d’Vars with the group. Helen drove the Renault with John N. as co-pilot. Hope he wasn’t as nervous as I was driving along the Routes des Grande Alpes. Wildflowers and orange poppies everywhere. John N. noticed a marmot wriggling across the road like a furry magic carpet so I slowed down to give him space. We met up with the group as they arrived at the summit. Enjoyed a Magnum ice-cream at the summit store with the others….driving can be exhausting! Paul purchased a great souvenir but I won’t spill the beans in case it’s a surprise gift for his wife. It would be fun if he wore it to an ACTC meeting or get together.
On the edge of town we noticed Jerry’s fluorescent orange jacket hanging from his handlebar in front of a café so we joined the group for lunch. Tony and Jean stopped for a few minutes before continuing on to Barcelonnette.
Our Barcelonnette hotel was a challenge to find in the car, even with GPS. Finally parked the car and began searching for it on foot when Tony and Jean called out from a window overhead to let us know that we were in the right location. The rest of the riders rode in later and also had a challenging time locating the hotel with GPS. The hotel had Winchester House features with staircases that went off in all directions. The rooms were very tiny and I kept bumping into sharp corners with every move.
Enjoyed a nice dinner at the hotel.
Paul Greene’s cyclometer: 32.5 miles; 3714 ft. climbing
Monday, June 22, 2009 Col d’Cayolle and Daluis Gorge by Car
Barcelonnette to Entrevaux via Gap
After breakfast at the hotel Ed, John N. and I drove back to Gap in order to add John N. as a driver on the rental car. After a relaxing scenic drive to Gap we entered the outskirts of Gap and used the mobile GPS to navigate through all the roundabouts to Hertz. About the time we entered the first roundabout the GPS indicated that batteries were low and kept showing low battery reminder messages every few minutes – a bit unnerving. Finally, after driving through the entire town on busy streets we arrived at Hertz only to be told we could not add John N. as French law only allows a maximum of three drivers. However, when we originally rented the car the counter assistant had informed us that our 35 additional Euros allowed up to 10 drivers…..after some negotiations the counter person agreed to take Jerry off as a driver and add John N. after she discussed it with her manager in the back room. We are not convinced she really did, but it gave us a false sense of security to think that we might still have insurance coverage in the event of an accident. After completing our rental car business we wound our way out of town and John drove the car to Entrevaux via the col d’Cayolle and the most scenic Daluis Gorge. We stopped often to take in the scenery and for picture ops and to talk with our riders. We passed through several one way tunnels and the riders were careful to turn on their headlights and tail lights. Jerry commented that today’s ride was now his new most favorite.
Sprinkles of rain were hitting the windshield when we pulled into the hotel Vauban in Entrevaux. A note on the door of the hotel requested that Tony Le call the number listed to get in touch with the manager about our rooms. Ed called the number and managed to convey that we were with the Anthony Le party. The manager gave him the code to get into the hotel and check out the rooms. By this time the sprinkles were turning into real rain just as the riders were pulling in to the hotel. It was a warm rain and they were barely wet. What good timing.
Dinner was prepared especially and only for us by the hotel manager’s husband on his day off at 7:00 p.m. Green salad with pate, pasta and beef bourguignon with green beans and a delightful ice-cream dessert.
The hotel is directly across the street from a huge and magnificient medieval fortress so enjoyed exploring some of the area after dinner.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009 – Beautiful Butterflies but a Not So Easy ‘Blue’ Ride
Entrevaux to Coursegoules
The group met for breakfast at the hotel at 8:00 a.m. Ed and I decide to ride today as the ride is listed on Tony’s calendar as a “blue” ride; blue meaning easy. Okay, we can do easy. Today’s climb is the col d’Raphael. We seem to reach the summit of the col in good time an it was an easy climb. Was it mile 10 or 12 miles? So, I thought,really going to be easy peasy from here on out. Wrong. The climb up to the col d’Raphael was the easy part. The climb up to the mountain top village of Coursegoules was the tougher climb, made tougher by the heat of the day. John N. was sagging so I knew I had a bailout option. But the pitches were no more than 10% and I didn’t need to walk the bike so kept grinding slowly and taking granny stops as needed. The scenery again was indescribably magnificent. The butterflies were of many colors, pastel, black and white, and orange as they floated along beside us as we pedaled slowing upward. What a glorious ride as we wound our way through tight little village streets (poor John N. driving the sag), narrow bridges, and cliff hanging roads!
We arrived at the Auberge Escaou, our hotel for the night, and our nicest hotel of the trip, so far. We enjoyed cold beers and olives on the outdoor patio. Ed stopped at the small store in the village and picked up olives and nuts. Ed is having trouble with French. The olives were stuffed with Anchov (anchovies) and the can of nuts turned out to be Vienna sausages.
We enjoyed our steak dinner at the hotel overlooking a terraced hillside covered with grazing sheep. We especially enjoyed the melon salad with jambon (thinly sliced ham). As the evening progressed the herding dogs did their work moving the sheep to yonder hills. It was pleasant entertainment for tired bicyclists.
Someone needs to seriously talk to Tony about ‘blue’ rated rides! When I hear easy I think of of an ACTC Grizzly Bear coffee ride, not Mt. Hamilton! The elevator in the hotel helped to make up for the day’s climbing.
Helen’s cyclometer: 41.22 miles; 4264 ft. climbing
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Coursegoules to Vence – Where are the Bicycle Boxes?
Jerry relies on his instincts and his instincts had been telling him for the past several days that we must check on the status of our bicycle cases with the FedEx tracking number to make sure our bicycles boxes had arrived at our last hotel destination in Cagnes-sur-Mer. So, before heading to Vence we used the hotel computer and discovered that our boxes had indeed been shipped to France……but had been sent to Paris and were being held by Customs. That didn’t sound good! Tony called FedEx and provided the information they requested in order to release the boxes before we rode off to Vence.
Our ride began with a wonderful long downhill…..heaven! We took a slight detour into the artistic village of Pont-du-Loop where we toured Confiseries Florian, a candy factory, and purchased a few treats. Tony stopped at a pottery shop and purchased a small pitcher that is beautifully handcrafted. We continue on, now climbing, but it is manageable and enjoyable. Ed and I rode through our first tunnels of the trip and made use of our headlights and tail lights.
We stopped at the town square in the artistic community of Tourettes-sur-Loop where an open market was just winding down. I happened to spot Jerry, Paul and John M. who had just ordered lunch at an outdoor café so we grabbed a table nearby and ordered the lunch special of lasagna and salad. The waitress brought the salad in one bowl for sharing, we assumed. At Jerry’s table they were served three lasagna’s and two salads. We overheard the wait staff arguing in French and broken English that the two salads were for all three. Fortunately, a waitress who was from New York was able to straighten out the confusion and provided them with a third salad. Tony, Jean, John N., and Jim purchased rotisserie chicken and baguettes, enjoying their lunch nearby under a shade tree.
Continued on to our overnight town of Vence, a busy town with lots of traffic. With the help of the GPS we made our way to the Seigneurs Hotel where Jerry has already arrived.
After checking in and storing our bicycles we joined Tony and Jean in search of John N. on the busy main street through Vence. Tony and Jean walked further up the street in hope of catching John near the intersection and soon spied him as he drove by slow enough for Tony to jump into the car to provide directions to the hotel. What good timing. Entering town John N. had stopped at a Best Western hotel to get directions, but the directions were very basic. It would have been a challenge to locate our hotel as it required winding through busy narrow streets.
After meandering through the Old Town on foot we joined Jean and Tony for an outdoor dinner in the Old Town Square.
Ed’s GPS: 22.65 miles; 961 ft. climbing; 3311 ft. descent (Whoo-hoo!! I did say it was a great downhill.)
Thursday, June 25, 2009 – New Route and What’s Up with the Bike Boxes?
Vence to Cagnes sur Mer
At breakfast the next morning at the hotel Ed informed Tony that he checked on the status of our bicycles boxes and the info is still showing that the boxes are being held in Paris. Tony called FedEx and learned that they had misinformed him Wednesday evening. Customs had the boxes and they weren’t going anywhere until Customs could get around to looking at the boxes, and no one could say when that would be. They mentioned there was a possibility our boxes could be released if we paid additional Euros – ah, a ransom.
Today Ed drove the car as John N. is in need of rest. John has done a wonderful job of providing SAG, tagging behind us on narrow mountainous roads and busy little village streets. Now, with only 12 miles or so to the destination town Ed and John head on the main road into Cagnes-sur-Mer where they check on the status of our boxes.
Tony worked out an alternate route that would help us avoid riding on busy streets down to the Mediterranean Sea, and Jerry created the route in his GPS. We were off, with the status of bicycle boxes still in limbo.
Within a couple of miles we dismount and push our bicycles on an uphill walkway to the narrow overpass overhead and then push our bicycles up a short 20% hill to the busy street ahead in order to get to the Chapelle du Rosaire that Henri Matisse called his masterpiece. I stay outside and watch the bicycles with Paul while the others tour. I am also recovering from jitters from a near collision with another cyclist who was screaming downhill as I was about to make a left turn to the Chapelle…..I hear a loud shout, “On your left, attention” – in French, but I understand!
The GPS eventually directed us to a dirt road and John, Paul, and Jerry check it out. Turned out to be a private road so we head uphill and the GPS reorients the course. Eventually we come to the end of paved road with 500 ft. of dirt road ahead, according to GPS. This reconnects to steep paved short switchbacks that drops us down into the outskirts of Cagnes sur-Mer. Tony gets a call from Ed----the bicycle boxes have been released after paying a handsome ransom and should arrive at the hotel by noon on Friday. Whew!
Jerry navigates us through some busy side streets until we hit the bike path that parallels the Mediterrean Sea. What a beautiful sight. Just ask the guys! In no time we arrive at the Aeva Hotel.
Ed and I enjoyed bicycling the path along the Mediterranean Sea toward Nice and discovering the designated bikeway to downtown in the afternoon.
Helen’s cyclometer: 12.12 miles; 600 ft. of adventure
Friday, June 26, 2009 – Bicycling to Antibes
Cagnes-sur-Mer
Today we joined Jerry, John M. and Paul for ride out to Antibes along the bike path and designated bike lanes on the main road to town. We meander around the harbor getting close up views of the yachts (and other things) that are berthed along the shoreline. Picture ops of the old Antibes castle that is home to the Pablo Picasso Museum and watched the cruise ships make their way to the French Riviera.
In C s/M we pedaled into downtown and ate rotisserie chicken sandwiches in the Town Square. Ed and I then rode back to the hotel while the others continued on the bike path toward Nice. When we arrived we were happy to see our bicycle boxes. Hooray! Tony, Jean, Jim and John N. were already in the throes of boxing up their bicycles. Jerry, Paul and John M. returned from their ride and began the process of boxing their bicycles. Finally, Ed begins to box up my bicycle and has to hurry as sprinkles turn into rain.
Ed returns to the hotel room to shower before dinner and discovers that his wallet is missing. Seems that while he was watching the guys pack their bicycles he took a quick trip to the nearby store to pick up some drinks. Initially he thought the wallet may have fallen out of his pocket or he left it on the store counter, but has come to believe it was lifted. Made calls to report his debit/credit cards missing. Fortunately he had his Passport stowed away in the room along with a debit/credit card from a different banking institution.
We all enjoy dinner along the promenade taking in the view of the Mediterranean Sea. This is the life! As we walked along the sea of people we wondered if any among them might be claiming to be the real Ed Shaw.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Cagnes-sur-Mer – Train to Nice -Museum and Ironman
This morning Ed and I left the hotel early to return the rental car to Nice Airport, just a few miles down the road. Helen drove since Ed no longer had his driver’s license. We figured out how to catch the shuttle bus from Terminal 2 to Terminal 1 and from there caught the #200 bus for one euro each back to C s/M. The others were not in their rooms so we headed out to find some breakfast and by the time we returned we met up with everyone. Paul, John M. and Jerry are going to take the train to Monaco and check out the Tour d’France Exhibit among other things, and John N. was going to try to get some rest by staying near the hotel. We joined Tony, Jean and Jim for a train trip to Nice to visit the Marc Chagall Museum.
After our visit to the museum we head out on foot downtown to the Town Square, which was also where the Nice Ironman had their registration and vendor tents for the event taking place the next day. We spent leisurely time checking out Ironman gear and mingling with others from many countries. Enjoyed a casual lunch at a large deli grocery store before setting out for our return trip to C s/M. The train station was packed and even with Tony's skill at navigating public transporation and his ability to converse in French, it was a challenge figuring out what was going on with the trains. We made a mad dash for a train when we heard Tony yelling our names and squeezed on just before it roared down the tracks.
The group enjoyed a last dinner at our favorite dinner spot along the Mediterranean Sea. The guys enjoyed their time in Monaco and apparently spent hours at the TdF Exhibit. We learned that Paul had his wallet lifted on the train today! Caution: Guard your wallet while visiting the French Riviera!
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Cagnes-sur-Mer – Ville France sur-Mer
Paul, Jim, John M. left at 5:00 a.m. for the airport so now there are six of us remaining. This morning Ed decided it was time to pack up his bicycle and then we headed off by train with Jean and Tony to Ville France sur-Mer. John and Jerry decide to take it easy around the hotel. We meandered the narrow streets of the touristy village and walked along the beach road. Helen enjoyed a refreshing pastis, a very French drink that is an anise-flavored liqueur.
For dinner we decided once again to eat at our favorite little neighborhood cafe. After dinner our waitress treats us with limoncello, an Italian liqueur. A nice ending to a wonderful vacation!
Monday, June 29, 2009
Cagnes-sur-Mer to SFO and Home – Missing Baggage
The Aeva Hotel manager drove us (minus John N. who is catching a later flight to Berlin to join his wife, Claudia, for two more weeks of touring) to the Nice Airport at 5:00 a.m. Today we are in luck……we were not charged for overweight, oversized bicycle cases. Our luck continued through Terminal 5 at Heathrow Airport as the queues moved quickly. We heard on the news that the day before Terminal 5 was a mess for more than five hours and many could not catch their outbound flights. We think our guys who departed yesterday left early enough to miss the confusion.
After a long flight to SFO we arrived at approx. 2:25 p.m. but had to wait on the plane for awhile before disembarking to collect our baggage. We learned that my green duffel bag with panniers had been off loaded and would be arriving on another flight and delivered to our front door tonight.
My brother, Bill, was waiting for us and drove us back to his place in Cupertino where he lives, and then we made our way to Jean and Tony’s place in San Jose and arrived home near Castroville and the Monterey Bay by 6:00 p.m.
In summary, we loved our adventurous trip in France. The challenges d’jour (FedEx and the ransomed bicycle boxes, trains, buses, rental car, pick pocketing, and the climbing) are a part of what made this trip so interesting. The countryside, magnificent alpes and scenery, small mountain top villages, the most wonderful helpful French people, the fantastic French food and wine, the great bicycling and camaraderie are wonderful memories of our trip. Tony did a fantastic job planning the routes in detail and was always calm and collected when challenges were presented, which can always be expected on any trip. We can’t thank him enough for all of his efforts on our behalf! Jean always maintained a positive attitude, climbed every col with the exception of the col d’Madeleine, and just kept going.
Thank-you so much for a GREAT trip!
Post trip note:
Helen’s green duffel bag arrived at the doorstep on Wednesday morning at 9:30 a.m. All is well!
